SOUTH'S FACE CLIMBING ROUTES
* IT IS FORBIDDEN to climb during the nest period on the following months: april, may and june
LOCATION AND ACCESS
We can reach Calp by the N-332 or the AP-7, taking exit 64 Altea/Calp to continue on the N-332 towards Calp/Valencia. To get to the north face, we will leave the car in the car park that gives access to the interpretation center of the Parc Natural del Penyal d'Ifach.
POSITION 38°38’21”N - 0° 4’22”E
In case of going to the south or west slope, we must follow the indications to the port of Calp.
POSITION 38°38’16”N - 0° 4’19”E
From the north car park we will take the ascending track that leaves us at the interpretation center, to continue along the path that leads to the summit and that passes through the base of the wall. 15 minutes.
To access the routes on the south face and the west face, we must go all the way along Paseo Príncipe de Asturias, which runs along the sea, and then take the path that goes up at the foot of the wall. From 10 to 20 minutes depending on the route.
From the summit, through the north face, a beautiful and slippery path descends.
For the hiker, the summit of the rock is a must. We can access it through the beautiful path that runs along the north face, going through a curious tunnel of more than 50 meters. Another alternative is the ascent to the Sierra de Bernia from Pinos or from Altea la Vella, by the P.R.-C.V. 7, which offers magnificent views of the rock and the bay of Altea.
The beaches and coves of Calp will be a good choice for days that are too hot or for afternoons after a good climb.
Next to the rock, in its immediate vicinity or on the isthmus that connects it with the coast, the historic Calp has developed, with vestiges of prehistoric, Iberian, Phoenician or Roman cultures, as evidenced by the popularly called Baños de la Reina, which are, in Actually, an ancient Roman salting factory. At the foot of the rock are the ancient Roman salt pans, an important ecological area that is home to a large number of migratory birds.
In the fishing port are the facilities of the Club Náutico de Calp and the marinas of Puerto Blanco and Les Bassetes also stand out. You can practice scuba diving, windsurfing, water skiing, swimming and sailing in general. Another interesting activity is caving and sport climbing, which we can practice in the Oltà mountain range.
As for Calp cuisine, we cannot forget its various rice dishes such as arroz caldoso, arroz con bogavante or arròs de senyoret, based on grouper or sliced squid, prawns and fish stock. This name comes from the way in which the "gentlemen" eat rice: all peeled, without bones and without having to get your fingers dirty. We must highlight the fish-based dishes such as cruet de peix, which we can taste in the many restaurants near the port.
230 m, 5+
Historical itinerary that has become the most repeated route of the Penyal. Very aesthetic in the final sections. The passage of numerous ropes has left some very polished sections. This is the case of the dihedral of the third pitch, graduated on its 5th grade day and which currently represents a real challenge for free climbing.
230 m, 6b
Elegant itinerary that runs through the pronounced dihedral system that forms the west buttress with the south face. As in the previous route, the passage of a large number of ropes has polished the rock, leaving some very slippery steps. Highly recommended.
110 m, 6b+
Sports itinerary that emerges from the upper dihedral of Polvos Mágicos. Recommendable.
165 m, 6c
This itinerary that begins at the Valencianos ledge is the best sport climbing option in this part of the wall. There is an alternative to the last pitch, leaving the meeting to the left through a collapsed wall with good edges: Pilar López de Pancho, 7b (R. de Valera and M. Cebrián). Highly recommended.
150 m, 5
Interesting itinerary somewhat more difficult than Valencianos that links a series of dihedrals to the exit of Dihedral U.B.S.A.
140 m, 6c+
Sports route with steps of plate on good rock.
250 m, 6c+
Beautiful sporting route that climbs a characteristic gendarme, stepping on some pitches of the Espolón Manfred route. The final section crosses the crossing of Dihedral U.B.S.A. to enter a spectacular crash of 6c +. The large number of repetitions that it supports is affecting the quality of the rock, which is increasingly polished. Essential.
250 m, 6c+/A0
One of the last equipped sports routes in the Rock. Very good pitches and quality rock. A set of fisureros can be useful in the fissure of the last pitch, equipped with "joy".
250 m, 6a
The great classic of the south face. Evident route that avoids the final crashes thanks to a pendulum rappel. Bolt stops have recently been added to the aging original equipment, greatly increasing the safety of this pioneering route. The quality of the rock has also been affected by the passage of time and hundreds of climbers. Essential.
250 m, 7a
The first of the routes equipped from above and a true benchmark for sport climbing on the rock. Very varied climbing with dihedral steps, collapse, plate, "potatoes", etc. The last pitch begins with some very delicate steps that we can overcome in A0. There is a slightly harder starting alternative (7b), called the Derbi Variant, which consists of taking a magnificent fissure trending to the right. Essential.
250 m, 6a/A3
Adventure itinerary that has very few repetitions, open in the purest style of its creator. Quality rock except for the second pitch. The top runs are very spectacular. It still retains the original equipment, merely decorative, except for a meeting equipped with a bolt. Recommended for experts in rock climbing.
250 m, 6b/A3+
Artificial route without truce that is among the most demanding in the Valencian Community. We will have to foresee a bivouac in the great cave.
250 m, 6b+/A3
Beautiful and demanding route. The first half of the route runs on a slab, through a laborious and demanding artificial climb, while the final, less demanding sections offer a climb over collapses, athletic and with a lot of atmosphere.
Route 29. La Manuel
250 m, 6b/A1
Rock tour 100%. Very smart and aesthetic layout. In the first 3 pitches, with some obligatory steps, the rock is usually slippery, so it is advisable to be used to this type of climbing if we want to enjoy the itinerary. Highly recommended.
220 m, 6c/A1
Nice sports route that takes advantage of the artificial pitch of Gómez-Cano to overcome the collapse of the second pitch.
250 m, 6a+/A1
Possibly the best known of the Rock routes. A true classic. The beauty of the route together with a difficulty that we could classify as medium, make it very interesting for roped teams of all levels. Very varied climbing with pitches on dihedrals, plates, chimneys and overhangs. The passage of a large number of chordates has had a pernicious effect on this marble rock. This, together with the marine environment, gives the first pitches a wet and slippery feel that will disappear with height. Highly recommended.
300 m, 6c
Nice route that concentrates the difficulty in the first 3 lengths. Interesting.
300 m, 7a
Modern itinerary that is supported by some lengths of the forgotten Directa Manfred to achieve a spectacular route. Equipped with parabolt where floating material is useless. It is advisable to know the routes in this area well so as not to "embark". Highly recommended.
310 m, 6b/A3
Magnificent route that has very few repetitions. Each and every one of its lengths are intense and of great beauty. Climbing this route today requires a certain commitment, since the equipment, highly affected by corrosion, is purely testimonial. At the moment it is advisable to climb the first pitch by Directa Rusa. The last pitch reserves a surprise, hidden by the unique opening of the route. If it were restored, it could be the best route on the Penyal.
310 m, 6b/A3
Bold itinerary, for many years considered one of the most difficult in Spain. His name alone sent shivers down the spine of some (myself included). Today the myth has been overcome in part and already has a large number of repetitions; yes, avoiding the 4th pitch, which crosses the roof of the Fragata with the help of nails and wooden plugs that are useless today.
350 m, 6c/A2+
This route could define the concept of "peñonero". With very acrobatic lengths on rock with whimsical shapes and sometimes somewhat doubtful, it is considered by many regulars as the best wall route. Its more or less rectilinear layout is something really unusual in the Rock. The route has recently been restored with parabolts, installed where the openings left some insurance. Despite everything, it is still a real challenge. The last pitch has been free climbed (6c), for which we must keep a cool head and of course... not look down! Essential for connoisseurs of Penyal. Essential for connoisseurs of Penyal.
350 m, 6b+/A2
In my opinion, one of the masterpieces of the Gallego brothers. Its intelligent layout, the quality of the rock and the magnificent atmosphere make it one of the most beautiful routes in the sector. Although in the original sketch this route could seem easy (A1/V), it was a real challenge for most of the ropes, receiving very few repetitions until well into the 90s. Much of the adventurous character of this itinerary was taken from it after its last equipment, in which expansives were added in the especially compromised sections.
350 m, 5+/A2+
Impressive layout that attacks the magnificent collapsed spur with the help of numerous burins. Impressive for its vertiginous atmosphere and for the exciting artificial-free transitions. The magnificent restoration carried out recently has returned it to its original beauty.
350 m, 6b/A2
Route that marked a before and after as far as climbing on the Rock is concerned. Retrofitting him with parabolt has restored him to the prestige he once had. The artificial length that crosses the great final vault is one of the most characteristic and photogenic of the Penyal. There is a short exit variant called Variante Voayante that ascends directly from the penultimate pitch rappel. This exit, not chained in free for the moment, is equipped with parabolts and offers a very athletic climb in a vertiginous environment.
350 m, 6b/A4
Extreme artificial route with a large number of steps over weights in the first pitches. Just the appearance of his first length, graduated from A4, manages to make more than one hair stand on end. Anticipate a bivouac.
Route 41. Nueva dimensión
350 m, 7b
Sporty, spectacular and demanding route. The penultimate pitch is among the most spectacular on the Penyal. It shares 2 pitches with Herbes Mágiques in which a set of fisureros can be useful. The first pitch can be a real stumbling block if we attack it cold. Highly recommended.
350 m, 6c/A4
One of the most committed routes in the Valencian Community with numerous and agonizing artificial-free transitions. no repetition known.
450 m, 7a/A0
Sports itinerary of recent equipment that is the longest route of the Penyal d'Ifac. The route takes advantage of some of the pitches of the Toni Bastidas route to exit through the Herbes Mágiques vault. Highly recommended.